1. First we start with a empty wine bottle
2.We need to remove all dust and grease off the product by using a glass cleaner
3. Make sure to cover the area where the design will go with the glass cleaner. you need to get all those finger smudges are removed.
4. You can use anything to wipe down the bottle to remove the glass cleaner, I personally use a thick napkin.
5.After it's wiped clean of all dirt and anything else that might be on it, it's almost ready for the R3 washout.
6. I like to us the R3 Washout film for bottles. For me it is easier to re-position for those few times I do not get it right the first time.
7. You want to make sure that the shiny side is facing down.
8. This is how it looks shiny side down on the ultra-violet light.
9. For this bottle I am running it in the Ultra-Violet light for 1 Minute.
10. This is how it looks after being ran through the Ultra-Violet light for one minute. You will not be able to see the image until after we use high pressure water on it.
11. I place the image on a clipboard, and then hang the clipboard on the back of my pressure washer cabinet.
12. This is the K 3.98 pressure washer
13. I usually let the water run for a little bit before I wash the image
14. Here you can start to see the image becoming more visible as you run the pressured water on it.
15. In a slow up and down movement, continue to running the pressured water over the image.
16. With the high pressure water running on the washout, you can see the image starting to show through.
17. The image is almost done
18. The image is now visible in the washout
19. Next take the image
off the clipboard. You will now need to dry off the R3 washout, here I used a
dryer sheet, but you can also use a hair dryer. Let it dry for 8 minutes.
20. Now I prep the bottle
itself while the R3 washout is drying. I use a sticky saran-wrap so that
it sticks to the bottle around the area's that I am not going to be
sandblasting for more control.
21. Saran-wrap the whole
bottle leaving the area where the image will be placed open. This will help protect
the rest of the bottle from any damage resulting from stray sand
23. After 8 minutes are up take the R3 washout out of the dryer. Trim away the excess so only the image itself is on the bottle
24. Extra pieces.
25. Once you have the
image position on the bottle, use the wire-brush to remove all air bubbles from
the image. This will make sure that when you sand-blast the mask isn't removed
at all.
26. Final prepping before Sand Blasting.
27. Using the
Crystal-Blast, you turn the pressure to depressurize
28. To pressurize
29. My PSI starts at 10
30. For this project I want
the PSI around 30
31. This is what the
cabinet looks like inside. To the right is the sand-blasting nozzle, and
to the bottom is the high-pressure air spray.
32. This is the bottle
with just the mask sand blasted, but because it’s a negative image
I realized that the bottle would look better if I put a light frosted
look on the entire bottle.
33. With the mask still on
the front side of the bottle, with the rest of the bottle with a light frosted
look
nice tip with the Seran Wrap!
ReplyDeleteThank you, what do you typically use?
ReplyDelete